The almanzor (and go two) The snow cargadito almanzor
Third time lucky, they say. I hope so. This time it looked good: good weather, coming directly from Hoyos del Espino, track open ... but it was not possible. And why? well, it's a good question, because it makes me think about the factors that influence small mountain, and make the difference between success and failure. But first let me talk about the activity we did, which was not small feat.
After getting up and are in running order at 07:15, started walking about 8:25 into the lagoon. Good tread with firm snow. No more new fall we planted in the lake (200m) at 11:15. At this time we are not going to be able to summit in the Mansur and decided to get into the channel morezón to the left of the central canal.
Views from the edge
This channel begins at a ramp of 45-50 ° from a niche, then go up to some blocks always seeking the protection it offers wall right. It was decided to pull the rope to secure the long, long to give you top rope (60m). The first feature has nothing. A ramp with a kind of step that goes well, then to meeting the right on some cracks. The only bad thing is nieve-dura/hielo changes to powder, and the inability to get anything stable than cuttings (I a) or anchors (I do not wear any). The second pitch starts with a vertical projection which requires no key issues as high as possible and giving the pass, looking to follow up a few blocks. Blocks that were occupied, and I have to pull another 25-meter assembly. To avoid possible pire, I put a stake as an insurance intermediary. Hence, the meeting on a nail and a friend.
begin in the third over the problems, and to do a quest to happen to the right of the channel (we went "what stiff ") which is where the road really starts. On reaching the middle of the journey I see that there is no more rope and you can not put a stake (the snow is soft). So I shot to the left looking for some blocks where making meeting. The blocks are bad and I have to set up a meeting on a bad friend, a stake and a tool. All triangulated with a ribbon. The only area of \u200b\u200bthe entire channel with hard ice and hung up. about 75-80 °. Vista the precariousness of the case (to make matters worse the sun begins to just around) the second strip directly to the meeting on the right side making the voyage and he plays live change to secure a second to ensure the former. In all I drop my fuss a carabiner.
Leaving the canal
Meanwhile, the other led by Fernando climber begins to climb the icefall below the long (which is really where the road begins truth). A very good well-formed waterfall ice, but begins to be late (16:00) To all this, it falls a cane black diamond "of the good." Two ice screws and comes to the meeting with other screw mount, a friend and a nail.
I dismounted In these precarious meeting and I'll pull the crack, when I look at the time and see what's going on in the second rope: The meeting has mounted where he could, and hangs up, precarious and not very good. The above expectations are uncertain, although the ice has good quality, via secure options are not very clear. View the time it was and what was left, I decide to leave the channel. To avoid further dragging the rope through the snow, we decided to untie and get out on top.
The final length of the channel is not difficult, but it has a mix of snow. Areas with snow and dust crust underneath, good ice and hard snow, combined with the output goes something vertical (75 degrees) and facing the courtyard are the output to be entertaining. The grand finale is when I get out and instead of being the top, is an edge. To all this when it tells me that my second rope has collected the second of the first rope, so I'm on the edge, and cordless.
The edge
As there were many options, find a pretty good piece of ice, and decide to go down there down climbing with lanyards. With more fear than shame, but without much problem, we lower the vertical ice cloth (about 12m) and make a journey to a flat area where the first rope waiting (16:30). When we meet all tell me they have had to leave the rope and he had to rappel from a nail and did not reach double. No more trouble, we went to the top and look the way back to the lawn of the pools, but not before making a high of 15 minutes to eat. No more mishaps that review (except that began to go into a fairly dense fog from the north) we arrive at the car about 18:30. 10 Horita of activity, which is not bad. Then Coke, a serving and Madrid (other 2h: 30min by car).
At first commented that the success or failure in the mountains is determined by a set of small details that sometimes we tend to overlook. I'm pretty package and not rush to large events (in fact up to almanzor no big deal) but these are small-scale experiments well to learn and experience firsthand all these things without a very high level of risk.
The first aspect that determines output in the mountains is the number of people going. I think the ideal number is two, for that security, even though I have found that one is much more effective, but it limits the things you can do. Four is fine (two cordate) if the level of both is more or less balanced (because we must remember that there are two that call first). More than four people just screw it applies to brown.
The second aspect is the objective. It is no use you want to do one thing, if the rest do not want or can. There comes a time in all sports that are going to "spend the morning" to "do things" and that requires some self-sacrifice, and a little ambition. If 4 of 6 people want to do one thing and 2, the chances are that if you try the activity does not end up getting, with the resulting discomfort in the group.
Another aspect is the schedule. In the mountains and more in winter, hours are sacred. Always takes longer than you think, and things always happen, so it is best to keep a firm schedule. And that means getting up early, prepare fast and make approaches slowly but surely. Take 3 hours to make an approximation of 2 means that you have an hour less scope for activity "serious" what it means to put yourself in danger.
Views from the first meeting
The material is always a discussion point. If you take enough, you may be needed, but if you wear a lot, is a liability and a nuisance. I am among those who think it's best to leave at home anything that is not going to use because lightness translates into speed. It is no use carry 60 feet of rope (and harnesses, carabiners, baskets, ribbons express the assurance material ...) where you're going to take long to get top rope without insurance. It is clear that the second will go well, but then maybe you had to rethink the cordate: if you first have to get all long without insurance and the second need be secured at the top, maybe the rope is not balanced, the remaining mobility and speed. The gesture of letting the rope is to lighten the pack in about 5-7 kg as little (depending on material)
Finally, when things go wrong, they can always get worse. Yesterday at the end nothing happened, but imagine that we would have needed the rope when we reached the edge, but the rope had been the first climber. Now imagine that the other rope instead of downloading decides to throw and we were isolated, as we saw a while later, he made the fog. Or that instead of falling a clip we drop the ring with the material, etc.
With all these things do not mean to be alarmist, on the contrary. Yesterday I had a great time and the activity was good, but it is always good to learn the things he does wrong one to correct them. I'm sure the third time's the charm.
circus Overview (click for larger view)
Arista 
